Looking for a charming village that is an easy weekend trip by train from London? Rye, with its cobbled streets, certainly fits the bill! It was so lovely, we stayed there for a few nights, despite its reputation of being haunted!
After hearing so much about its beauty, my mother and I visited Rye, a small historic town in South Sussex, South England, for 5 days.
We loved the cobbled streets, Tudor architecture, quirky cafes and sweeping countryside views. I also liked how most of the shops were independent boutiques and not chain shops. (However, don't expect "useful" shops such as supermarkets in the town centre.)
As someone who loves quaint towns with character, Rye exceeded many of our expectations!
Fun Fact: Rye was used as a filming location for season 3 of The Crown!
What to do in Rye
Arriving in Rye feels like stepping into a Medieval postcard. (It is an easy walk from the train station to the town centre.) As a female traveler of color, I felt completely safe in Rye, even at night (by which I mean around 8-9 pm and not 1-2 am!)
You are greeted by winding cobblestoned lanes like Mermaid Street, timber-framed houses, and independent shops.
(1) The Heritage Centre
Start your day in Rye at the Heritage Centre. Rye Heritage Centre which is in a converted 19thC sail loft unearths the 750 years of Rye’s history and includes the “Story of Rye”, a 15-minute film and light show featuring a scale model of the town.
The Heritage Centre is adjacent to the Rye Town Information Centre on Strand Quay, a 15-minute walk from the train station.
(2) Landgate
The Landgate is the last surviving evidence of Rye’s ancient walls. There were originally 4 fortified entrances to Rye. It was built to defend Rye from invading forces in the 11thC.
The clock above Landgate Arch was installed in 1863, as a memorial to Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, Prince Alfred.
The Strandsgate has disappeared long ago: it survived until around 1819. A few remains were incorporated into the Old Borough Hotel at the end of Mermaid Street.
Note: Parking in this area is strictly controlled. However, Saltcote Place, which is about 700 yards walk uphill, has plenty of parking lots.
(3) Mermaid Street
This is the most photographed Street in Rye. It is picturesque, lined well preserved, half-timbered house.
Due to the uneven cobblestones and a steep incline- we used walking up and down this street as our daily "gym"- I recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes when exploring this street!
(4) Rye Castle Museum
The 2 museum sites, RCM East Street and RCM Ypres Tower are just a short walk apart.
The Ypres Tower is a scheduled monument built in the 13thC. Together with the Medieval Garden and Women’ Tower, they are collectively known as Rye Castle.
The exhibits feature stories of the history of Rye, its inhabitants and the surroundings.
RCM East Street, housed in a 19th-Century bottling plant near the High Street, boasts a collection of Rye history and local industry. (Free admission)
(5) St. Mary’s Church
Built in the 12th century, St. Mary’s Church is the Anglican parish church of Rye and has one of the oldest church turret clocks that still works.
From the top of the tower, you can have a panoramic view of Rye, its medieval streets, the rolling hills, the coastline and the surrounding countryside.
Besides the stunning views, the church’s architecture and stained-glass windows are worth admiring.
Despite its idyllic surroundings, a murder occured in the churchyard in 1742. John Breeds, a butcher, murdered Allen Grebell- however, it was entirely by accident as he really meant to kill the mayor. Unfortunately, he was still hanged, and his skull is now in the town hall.
Both John Breeds and Allen Grebell are thought to still haunt the church...
Admission : Free but there's a fee for climbing to the tower.
(6) Lamb House: exploring literary Rye
A trip to Lamb House toknowmoreabout Rye’s literary roots is a must. This house was home to the American author, Henry James.
Literature lovers will love his life and work at this historic place. It is a museum showcasing James’ connections to the town and his literary contributions. Enjoy strolling along the beautifully maintained gardens that once inspired James’ writing.
Besides informative displays about Henry James, guided tours will add an insight into his (and other notable residents) about his time in Rye and how it influenced his writing.
Note: The author Georgette Heyer used Rye as a setting for some of her historical novels. Her novel, “The Unknown Ajax” features visits to Mermaid Street and Ypres Tower and scenes of smuggling.
(7) Explore the artistic side of Rye
Rye has a strong artistic connection, historically and contemporary. Its vibrant art scene includes galleries, studios, and artisan shops. Famous artists like Eric Ravilious, Edward Barra, Paul Nash and J.M. Turner made their homes in Rye.
Rye Art Gallery, located at 107 High Street and incorporating the former Ypres Studio in Ockmans Lane, features and focus on contemporary visual art which it exhibits alongside heritage artworks from its permanent collection.
(8) Explore Rye’s Independent Shops
Browse through independent shops offering antiques, art books, scent candles and household tools:
- Soap & Salvation for antiques, vintage and handcrafted furniture, books
- Merchant & Mills for haberdashery in a high-ceiled old toy factory
- Grammar School Records in a 17thC school building for records, CDs and cassettes
- Rye Pottery
- Pale and Interesting
Browse unique shops & boutiques at Mermaid Street
Don’t forget to browse through the antiques shops around Mermaid Street:
- Strand Quay for bric-a-brac
- Alex MacArthur Interiors housed in a sprawling 14thC monastery on Conduit Hill
- Rae Store for throws, candles and cushions
- The Shop Next Door (to the George Hotel) in the High Street offers furnishings and decor featured in the hotel and homeware.
- Handmade Rugs Rye, located in the Landgate near The Queens Pub
(9) Rye’s Weekly Markets
Rye Farmer’s Market is held every Wednesday morning and offers fresh local seasonal produce and artisanal food makers.
Rye Market, held every Thursday, offers a variety of goods
Rye Craft Fair is held periodically at Strand Quay. Mary’s Church features handmade crafts and artwork.
Rye Country Market, held every Friday, at the Rye Community Centre features a selection of locally produced goods
(10) Rye Harbour Nature Reserve
A bus from Rye Train Station goes straight to Rye Harbour, which runs alongside the River Rother.
Rye Harbour Nature Reserve is only a few minutes’ walk away. This is home to over 4,000 species of plants and animals. It is a great place for bird watching.
Visit the Rye Harbour Discovery Centre and relax at the on-site dog-friendly cafe.
(11) Camber Sands
Camber Sands is an enormous stretch of pale sand with a backdrop of massive dunes. It is also home to the only dune system in East Sussex. They are a natural habitat for different species of plants and animals found on the dunes.
(12) Tillingham Winery
Calling all wine lovers. Visit the 70-acre farm with woodlands, livestock and most of all, vineyards. This winery is only a 10-minute drive from Rye. Enjoy wine tastings, relax in the outdoor gardens, dine at the barn with sourdough pizzas, or splash on a 6-course tasting menu.
Where to eat in Rye
I don't believe we ate at a single chain restaurant during our week in Rye!
(1) The Queens Head
Dog friendly : Yes
This lively traditional old English pub is situated near the Landgate. It offers a good selection of local ales and wines besides good homemade food.
It also has live music with outdoor seating.
(2) The Lemon Grass
This Thai restaurant sits in the heart of Rye. It offers clearly vegan dishes such as vegan fried rice, pad Thai, spring rolls and more.
(3) Marino’s Fish Bar
When we asked the proprietor of the B&B at which we stayed for a restaurant recommendatio, she did not hesitate to say, “Marino’s Fish Bar”.
We enjoyed the fish and chips, cod and haddock, so much so that we went back for dinner the next day.
(4) The Globe Inn Marsh Rye
Dog friendly : Yes
This pub serves a generous portion of mussels, prawns and smoked mackerel. In addition, they have veggie options. There is outdoor seating plus live performances.
(5) The Fig
Dog friendly : Only service dogs allowed
This chic cafe and restaurant with individually decorated rooms features locally sourced and healthy food. Tapas, pulled pork quesadilla, avocado toast, tuna ceviche, waffles, goat cheese are some of the popular dishes. Vegan options are available.
(6) The Mermaid Inn
The Rosette Restaurant in the 600-year-old Mermaid Inn offers a fine dining experience. Enjoy a historic lunch or dinner at this Inn with its sloping ceilings, beams, cozy nooks and fireplaces.
Its historic setting was indeed impressive but we found the food overpriced- it was OK but didn't taste amazing- and service was slow.
Interesting note: The cellar dates back to 1156. Smugglers drank here and used the inn as a stronghold. There are undergound tunnels that connect the Inn to the other places within the town.
(7) Webbe’s at The Fish Cake
Dog friendly : Yes
This family-run restaurant is located near the Landgate with nearby parking. It serves locally caught fish and seafood. Meat and vegetarian dishes are also available. The seafood is reasonably priced for its quality. Fresh oysters and seasonal catches stood out.
(8) Knoops
Dog friendly : Yes
This cafe at Tower Forge serves a wide selection of crafted chocolate drinks.
(9) The Ypres Castle Inn, Pub and Restaurant
Dog friendly : Yes
If you are visiting Ypres Castle, why not stop at the restaurant for drinks, cheese and pickle rolls, handmade pork pies, great craft beer, ales, cider or just a cup of coffee or tea.
Relax at this epic beer garden beneath the ramparts of Rye Castle.
(10) The Ship Inn
Dog friendly : Yes
The Ship Inn, a cosy pub built in 1592, is full of beautiful and historical features like wooden beams and original wooden floors.
It is situated at the foot of Mermaid Street and offers real ales and cider together with delicious homemade food.
(11) The George In Rye
The George In Rye offers local wines, and a restaurant menu infused with Mediterranean zest. Have a glass of the local Chapel Down wine.
(12) Hoof
Dog friendly : Yes
This steak and burger restaurant uses beef and potatoes grown on the owner’s farm near Romney Marsh. Besides steak and burger, they serve seafood dishes, beers, ciders and many more dishes.
(13) The Standard Inn
Dog friendly : Yes
This beautiful traditional pub also offers bed and breakfast accommodation besides having a bar and restaurant. Besides serving tasty food, the atmosphere is lively and welcoming.
(15) Ye Olde Bell
Dog friendly : Yes
Also known as The Olde Bell Inn, this historical inn was built in 1390.
This is a children-friendly pub and serves a good selection of tapas throughout the week, Sunday roast lunches and a good selection of real ales, wines and beers.
Interesting fact:
It was once used for smuggling, connected by a secret tunnel with the nearby Mermaid Inn!
Where to stay in Rye
Our bed and breakfast, the Copper Kettle, was the most beautifully decorated and comfortable bed and breakfast we had stayed in. Unfortunately, it is not longer in operation.
Here are some other good places to stay at in Rye:
(1) The Mermaid Inn
This historical inn is located on Mermaid Street. Established in the 12th century, it was used by the smugglers in the 18th century, with Norman cellars dating back to 1156.
Some say that the Inn is still haunted by the smugglers.....
This is one of the pricier places to stay on this list.
(2) The George in Rye
Dog friendly : Yes
This is a 16th-century coaching inn which has been recently refurbished.
The period features (half-timbered ceilings, narrow walkways and stairs), antique furniture together with fresh seasonal dishes and good service add to its popularity.
Note:
As The George is in a historical building, there are no lifts. The stairs could be quite challenging if the hotel rooms are at the top of the building.
(3) The Standard Inn
Dog friendly : Yes
Situated in the heart of Rye, The Standard Inn has 5 rooms.
It features a bar and restaurant with traditional features: a fireplace and wooden beams. This traditional pub has a regular schedule of performances.
(4) The Fig
Dog friendly : For lunch, but not for dinners
The Fig is within walking distance of St. Mary’s Church, the Lamb House and the Mermaid Street.
(5) Whitehouse Rye
Dog friendly : Yes, but with an additional fee
This heritage-listed building is a modern all-day eatery, in-house bakery and has 6 bed and breakfast rooms.
(6) Tillingham
Calling all wine lovers: this 70-acre vineyard has 8 ensuite rooms in a former hop bar, a restaurant, pizza bar and wine tasting facilities.
It is not within walking distance of Rye town centre unfortunately so you will need a car or be willing to spend on cabs.
Getting to Rye from London
You can reach Rye from London by train, car or bus. The most convenient way is by train as parking is difficult to find in Rye centre.
It only takes a little over an hour to get to Rye but there is no direct train from London. The fastest route is from London St Pancras International (with a change at Ashford International)- this takes about 1 hour 6 minutes.
You can also take the train from Canon Street or Charing Cross but the journey will then take over 2 hours.
Note that Rye Station is a very basic, small station.
If you love quaint villages, Rye is perfect for you! Any questions about visiting Rye from London? Let me know in the comments!
